Benefits
Skin moisture and barrier function
In a placebo-controlled trial in 59 women living in Mumbai, 350 mg a day for 56 days reduced water loss through the skin and raised skin moisture compared with placebo. Wrinkles, sagging and elasticity did not change significantly. This one trial was funded by the maker.
Skin cell protection from pollution and UV in lab tests
In human skin cells exposed to fine dust plus UVA light or to hydrogen peroxide, the extract reduced protein oxidation in vitro. In the human trial, a blood oxidative stress marker did not change, so this effect has not been shown in people.
Mechanism of action
Antioxidant flavonoids
Blue fenugreek leaves contain glycosylated flavonoids built on apigenin, luteolin and kaempferol, which the developers propose help skin cells cope with oxidative stress from airborne particles.
Reduced protein oxidation in skin cells
In lab tests, the extract lowered protein carbonylation, a marker of oxidative damage, in skin fibroblasts stressed with fine dust and UVA light.
Clinical trials
Randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of 350 mg/day for 56 days, funded by Mibelle (NCT04544982). (Kappler et al. 2022, Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol)
59 women aged 30 to 55 with visible signs of skin aging, living in Mumbai, India.
By day 56, transepidermal water loss fell more with the extract than placebo (-5.86 vs -2.32 g/m2/h, p=0.022; not significant at day 28), and forehead skin moisture rose 2.24 percent versus a 2.15 percent fall with placebo (p=0.036). The extract group started the trial with significantly higher water loss than the placebo group. Wrinkle severity, sagging, elasticity, inflammatory markers and blood malondialdehyde did not change significantly. No adverse events were reported.