Benefits
Skin appearance
Two 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials have measured visible skin change. In 60 women with signs of sun and chronological ageing, crow's-feet wrinkle depth improved significantly compared with placebo from week 4. In 71 women aged 30 to 66, forehead wrinkle volume fell 23.3% from baseline by week 12 while the placebo group rose 13.6%, a significant difference between groups at week 12, and wrinkle count fell 24% (between-group p = 0.06). Skin gloss rose 20.2% from baseline with placebo essentially unchanged, though the between-group difference for gloss reached significance only in the subgroup who started with duller or more wrinkled skin. Read these with care: both trials were co-authored by the ingredient supplier; in the second trial the wrinkle-volume analysis included only 28 of 36 supplement and 30 of 35 placebo participants, and the gloss analysis only 24 of 36 and 30 of 35; and on both endpoints the supplement group started further from ideal than placebo (wrinkle volume 3.87 versus 2.65 mm3, gloss 6.23 versus 6.88 GU), which leaves more room for a percentage change.
Skin elasticity and hydration
Skin elasticity, firmness and ultrasound-measured skin thickness improved significantly compared with placebo in the 60-woman trial, which also found gains in moisturisation and barrier function. Hydration is less consistent: the later 71-woman trial found no difference from placebo in overall forehead hydration or transepidermal water loss. Among the minority who started dry (corneometer under 40 a.u.), hydration beat placebo only at week 2, and by week 12 the placebo group had improved almost as much (22% versus 30%). Among those who started with a weakened barrier (transepidermal water loss above 15), both groups improved and the two never differed significantly from each other at any visit. Collagen itself has never been measured in people taking this blend.
Antioxidant and healthy-aging support
In cultured human skin fibroblasts the blend lowered reactive oxygen species after a hydrogen-peroxide challenge and prevented the build-up of glycated proteins after UV exposure. These are cell-culture findings only. No antioxidant status marker and no advanced glycation end-product measurement has been taken in the blood or skin of anyone taking the supplement, and no measure of general ageing or lifespan has been studied in people.
Mechanism of action
Antioxidant and anti-glycation action
In cultured human dermal fibroblasts, the polyphenol-rich extracts lowered intracellular reactive oxygen species after an oxidative challenge and prevented the accumulation of advanced glycation end-products after UV irradiation. Advanced glycation end-products stiffen collagen in ageing skin, but whether the capsule changes them in living human skin has not been tested.
Cellular-aging support
In the same fibroblast experiments the blend slowed telomere shortening in both dividing and oxidatively stressed cells, briefly raised telomerase activity at 24 hours, and restored viability in cells damaged by hydrogen peroxide. Collagen synthesis was not among the measurements taken, and none of these cellular changes has been demonstrated in human skin or in blood.